Doesn’t feel like it’s been that long since I last updated, but it often feels like time slows down when we stop moving.
We spent an unusually long time in Santiago, first basking in relative luxury and birthday-induced decadence, then being unable to tear ourselves away from the by-then familiarity of the city (to the extent that we shuffled ourselves between three different hotels in as many nights, just to be able to stay)… And now we’re only a couple of hours away in the coastal city of Valparaíso. But at last about to make our way down to the Lake District – a long overnight bus ride, but figuring our bank balances and attention spans would probably both appreciate getting to the interesting parts of Chile as soon as possible.
Unsurprisingly, the birthday and all things related to it were just lovely (somehow all the things I used to consider nice but unremarkable, like three-star hotels and great Indian food, are now glorious. It’s such a different way of life, travelling for regular people, vs backpacking. Sadly the comedown afterwards was unexpectedly hard). So we lazed about in our ridiculously comfortable room, dawdling over our breakfast of pink champagne and strawberries, then ventured forth to long walks in the city and sprawling hilltop views, and, as mentioned, really great Indian food in a lavishly decorated confection of a restaurant.
Disappointingly, though, it seems the residents of Santiago are none too fussed about their Independence Day; as far as we could see, the only signs of anything out of the ordinary were deserted streets, closed shops, and a proliferation of flags. Which for the most part was just inconvenient, and we barely noticed the flags. But hearing tell of a parade, we did make it to the huge city park the day after my birthday, which was evidently where it’s at… stuffed to capacity, the air thick with barbecues and heaving with kite-flying children, most of whom can’t even have noticed the intricately choreographed military parade carving pompously through the centre of the park. Much as the military did do their best to drum patriotism into the hearts of their people, it did all seem an excuse for a giant party.
But at last onward to Valparaíso, quirky with its colourful hilltop neighbourhoods, fifteen funiculars, and dusty industrial harbour thrown in for contrast. (Interesting, but not the fascinating snapshot of Chile that the Footprint guide would have us believe – curse it and its many lies and exaggerations; it appalls me to think how many poor readers in need of guidance are unsuspectingly lured to this sprawling harbour city expecting a haven of perfection.)
Having exhausted the appeal of city streets, we hopped a bus to the beachfront resort town of Viña del Mar (a nice little beach, but surely not one of the most popular in South America, Footprint??), which even in winter was filled with wealthy city-dwellers squeezed into string bikinis and sprawled beneath the struggling sun, sucking up UV rays like there’s no tomorrow. Just like Benidorm.
But I’ll admit that after the seemingly endless cold this winter, an ice cream on the pier, on a clear warm day, was bliss. Even though I’d stubbornly brought no bikini, and swimming was forbidden in the scummy waters anyway.
Still itching to get on with things, tonight it’s to Pucón on the banks of Lake Villarrica, which is meant to be spectacularly picturesque, according to Footprint. 🙂
