Ask a Kiwi and they’ll probably be horrified. Look, I know a week is not enough to see New Zealand. But our flights stopped in Auckland on the way home from the Cook Islands, we added a week to see what we could – and I promise you, this one-week North Island itinerary was worth it.
This itinerary covers a few of the North Island’s top must-sees: Auckland (for which a full day, frankly, is enough if you’re short on time), wineries on Waiheke Island, geothermal wonders and hiking in Rotorua and Taupo, and of course Lord of the Rings fandom in Hobbiton. It combines city and nature, with both relaxation and activity, and a manageable amount of travel.
Here’s what we did:
| Day | Night | ||
| Day 1 | Arrive in Auckland mid-morning, ferry to Waiheke (40 mins) | Waiheke | Read about Waiheke |
| Day 2 | Waiheke – walks and wine tasting | Waiheke | |
| Day 3 | Waiheke – more exploring, then ferry to Auckland for the night | Auckland | Read about Auckland |
| Day 4 | Drive to Rotorua (3h), maybe stop at Wai-O-Tapu, then Taupo (1h) | Taupo | Read about Rotorua and Wai-O-Tapu |
| Day 5 | Taupo – hike, visit hot springs, see Huka Falls or skydive | Taupo | Read about Taupo |
| Day 6 | Drive to Hobbiton (1.5h), Hobbiton tour (about 2h), then to Auckland (3h) | Auckland | Read about Hobbiton |
| Day 7 | Auckland – sightseeing | Fly home |
Waiheke
We loved Waiheke. An island just 40 minutes from central Auckland, with great walks between great wineries with great views? What’s not to love?! If you’re arriving into Auckland at a reasonable time, I recommend heading straight for Waiheke (no offence, Auckland; I liked you too. Just not as much).
Waiheke: Transport
Here’s how to do it: take the Sky Bus from Auckland Airport to the city center – it departs every 10-15 mins and takes about 45 mins to reach the downtown ferry terminal. It costs NZ$18 one-way or NZ$32 return. Then find the Waiheke ferry – the Fullers ferry leaves every half hour, until 11.45pm (but it’s less frequent after 8.45pm – check the timetable). The ferry costs NZ$18 one-way or NZ$36 return, and takes 40 mins to reach Waiheke.
If you haven’t arranged a pick-up with your accommodation, there are taxis at the Waiheke ferry terminal. They’ll charge NZ$7-12 to the main town, Oneroa, or it’s only a 25-minute walk. In Oneroa you can rent a car or bike, or take the bus around the island.
Oneroa 
Waiheke: Where to stay
There are boutique hotels, Airbnbs and B&Bs all over Waiheke, but if you only have a night or two, I recommend staying in Oneroa. It’s a pretty little town of quirky gift shops, cafés and estate agents. Touristy, yes, but it still has a relaxed atmosphere and doesn’t feel crowded. It’s also a great base for beaches, wineries and walks, and you’re not relying on transport to get to restaurants.
We stayed at SeaDream, a pair of holiday apartments with lovely views, right in the middle of Oneroa. It was easily the best value option I found after a lot of research – spacious, impeccably clean, perfectly located, with friendly service AND free pick-up and drop-off at the ferry. We paid £110/night.
Other options with great reviews include Wild Thyme (£158, lovely views), Kiwi House Waiheke (£64, great value), Oyster Inn (£219, good location in town), Te Whau Lodge (£340, gorgeous views), Breakfast on the Beach Lodge (£370, views, etc), and Mudbrick Cottages (£500, unique and beautiful, one of a few options at Mudbrick Vineyard). All include breakfast.
Waiheke: Where to eat and drink
In Oneroa, we loved Oyster Inn for its fantastic seafood and views from the balcony, and Fenice for a cosy vibe and great Italian food. For brunch, Oneroa Beach Club is hard to beat – we ate there both mornings and still have unfulfilled fantasies about its menu.
Near Oneroa, Mudbrick Vineyard has casual dining at Archive Bar & Bistro, and Cable Bay Vineyards has the smart contemporary Dining Room or more casual Verandah. Elsewhere in Waiheke, we were told there are several great (if pricey) winery restaurants, including Man O’ War Vineyards (try the tasting platter), Passage Rock and Te Whau.
Waiheke: What to do
Wineries: There are several wineries within walking distance of Oneroa (another reason it’s a great base). Take the road leading southeast out of town, walk for 15-20 minutes and you’ll reach Cable Bay Vineyards. There are views across the Hauraki Gulf to Auckland, and wine tastings from NZ$10. Or stay a while longer and try more from the menu – we liked the mezze platter. With bean bags on a wide open lawn, it was an amazing spot to spend a few hours.
Carry on up the hill for about 8 minutes, and Mudbrick Vineyard has even more lovely views and moreish wine. Try the Reserve Pinot Gris if they have it.
Walks: Many more walking trails cover the landscape of Waiheke. ‘Te Are Hura’ is a network of walking tracks, helpfully signposted and mapped by the tourist board. Find a tourist info centre to pick up a map, or download a PDF version here. It’s divided into four sections, with different scenery in each part of the island.
Exploring the island: Waiheke is bigger than you’d think, and we only saw the westernmost corner by foot. If you don’t have a car, the Explorer hop-on hop-off bus is a good option – it circles the island in 1.5 hours, but obviously you can get on and off wherever you like. You can get a combined ferry+bus ticket for NZ$65 for one day, or NZ$95 for two days. Or rent bikes – it’s a nice place for cycling as there’s not much traffic, just hills and a risk of impaired judgment if you’ve been wine tasting.
Auckland
Heading back to Auckland for the night meant we could get an early start the next morning, when we needed to pick up the rental car and drive to Taupo. It’s a lovely city for a stopover, though – easy to get around, with decent accommodation options and some great bars and restaurants.
Auckland: Transport
We rented a car from Avis, and they were great. The office in downtown Auckland (on Nelson Street) is a short walk from both places we stayed at, and from the ferry terminal. They were efficient and friendly. Car rental in New Zealand isn’t cheap, but Avis was reasonable – we paid NZ$272 (about £142) for almost 3 days (from 8am on Day 4 to 6pm on Day 6).
Auckland: Where to stay
With two separate stays in Auckland, we spent one night in a cheap central apartment, and one in a luxury hotel with harbour views.
- Star Park Serviced Apartments was amazing value, with a central location (views of the Sky Tower from the balcony!), fuss-free service and even a kitchen in case you need it. We paid £70 for a studio apartment.
- Sofitel Auckland Viaduct Harbour is probably the best luxury hotel in Auckland (I did a lot of research. Hey, it was the last night of our honeymoon). Our marina view room was huge, the staff were so impeccably trained they bordered on creepy, the harbour location was great for bars and restaurants. And the breakfast was somehow both à la carte and buffet at the same time; it has to be eaten to be believed. From £170/night.
If you’re on a tight budget but still want to stay downtown, there are hostels. Many have wildly mixed reviews, but it’s worth having a look at Haka Lodge (£52 for a double room), Queen Street Backpackers (£38) and The Shakespeare Hotel (£85).
Auckland: Where to eat and drink
Auckland is inexplicably crowded with Asian restaurants; I wouldn’t know where to begin if I’d wanted sushi. Fortunately we’d heard a tip that XuXu is a fun dumpling and cocktail bar – the kind of trendy that reminded me of London – and it paid off. It was just busy enough on a weekday evening; there might be a wait on a weekend. Highlights were the roast duck dumplings and S’pear Me gin cocktail.
We also ate at Oyster & Chop on the Viaduct Harbour. Here you do need a reservation – and a fairly healthy wallet – but the food and service were both excellent. Apparently the restaurants in this area can be hit and miss, but there are a lot of tempting spots for drinks – we had a few craft beers at Dr Rudi’s Rooftop Brewing Co., where the after-work crowd was raucous but the sunset views are hard to beat.
Other good places for a few drinks were Brew On Quay, Northern Steamship, and the bars along Vulcan Lane.
Auckland: What to do
Just explore! I wish I could give more info here, but honestly when we Googled ‘things to do in Auckland’ the top suggestion was ‘go to Waiheke’. We enjoyed just walking around though – don’t miss Queen Street, Viaduct Harbour and Wynyard Quarter, and Takutai Square (the little walking street leading to it, with its canopy of fairy lights, is often called the prettiest in Auckland).
Rotorua and Wai-O-Tapu
We drove via Rotorua but had already decided not to stay. It’s a charmless tourist town, but if you have kids or love activities like zorbing and rafting, the area does have a lot to offer. There are good hikes apparently, including walks around lakes Okataina and Tikitapu (Blue Lake). There’s thermal activity to marvel at without even leaving town – check out Sulphur Point and Kuirau Park.
It’s also a good place to learn about Maori culture, with museums and evening entertainment shows. We’d already seen that sort of thing in the Cook Islands, but if you’re new to this part of the world then I’d recommend it. Whakarewarewa, ‘the living Maori village’, is often recommended.
Instead we headed for Wai-O-Tapu, which we’d heard is probably the most impressive and diverse geothermal park. A series of steaming, bubbling and brightly coloured pools are connected by boardwalks and labelled with quirky names like ‘devil’s ink pots’ and ‘thunder crater’ (and some less so, like ‘frying pan flat’). It’s a fun walk through a weird landscape.
Wai-O-Tapu: Details
Wai-O-Tapu is about a half-hour drive from Rotorua and 3.5h from Auckland. It’s open every day from 8.30am, with last admission at 3.45pm in April–October and 4.45pm November–March. It takes around 2h to walk around the whole park, but you can do shorter loops in 30 or 40 minutes. Tickets cost NZ$32.50.
Taupo
Taupo is a friendly, down-to-earth town. It’s probably a lot more lively in the summer, though on a chilly spring day in October, the lakefront pubs’ outdoor tables were still busy with groups and families having a post-hike pint.
The reason to come here is the scenery. Taupo looks out at enormous Lake Taupo – the biggest lake in New Zealand, it’s about the size of Singapore. Across its sparkling surface, you can see the snowy peaks of Tongariro National Park, including Mt Tongariro, Mt Ruapehu and Mt Ngauruhoe (which found fame as Mount Doom in the Lord of the Rings films). The town itself is surrounded by forests, volcanoes, rivers and countless hiking and mountain biking trails.
Taupo: Transport
Taupo is about an hour’s drive from Rotorua and 3.5h from Auckland. The best way to get here and explore the area is by car or campervan, but there are also frequent InterCity buses (schedules and prices here) and backpacker bus tours.
Taupo: Where to stay
Budget travellers are spoilt for choice here. There are loads of motels, hostels and B&Bs, including Tiki Lodge (£45/night), Haka Lodge Taupo (£42), Aultmore Hollow B&B (£70, a bit out of town, but has a hot tub and cats!), and Clearwater Motor Lodge (£98, a popular option if you want lake views).
We chose Rainbow Lodge (£40/night), which was great. Nothing fancy, but there are big, well-equipped common areas, and our en suite room was clean and comfortable enough. There’s free parking and wifi, and it gets consistently good reviews.
Taupo: Where to eat and drink
We didn’t discover anything remarkable, but liked Pub n Grub for lake views, good beers and a relaxed atmosphere. Also lakefront and great for casual eats is BurgerFuel, because apparently you can’t go to New Zealand without eating at BurgerFuel.
Taupo: What to do
Skydive!! OK I’m biased, but it’s a popular activity here, and Taupo really is one of the best places in the world to take the leap. It’s cheaper than many other places in New Zealand, the tandem skydiving companies are reassuringly reputable, and the views are stunning. Read the full details in my guide to tandem skydiving in Taupo, New Zealand.
Other things to do…
Huka Falls: Just outside Taupo, this is a popular tourist spot – a natural gorge funnelling 220,000 litres of water per second into the Waikato river. It won’t be the most impressive falls you ever see, but it’s a lovely area for hiking. There’s a 6km trail that starts in Taupo – from Spa Road at the northern end of town – and follows the river until you reach the falls. Or for an adrenaline fix, take a jet boat to the roaring base of the falls.
More hiking: Another popular hike goes to the summit of Mt Tauhara, just outside town. It’s a 2.8km trail that climbs to 1,088m – some parts are steep, so it’s recommended for ‘intermediate’ hikers with sturdy footwear. At the top, you’re rewarded with panoramic views across Lake Taupo and the central North Island. It takes about 1h 15m to reach the summit.
Cycling: The Great Lake Walkway is an easy cycling track that starts at Taupo Boat Harbour and follows the lakefront, passing ice cream stalls and swimming spots. For more of a challenge, there are mountain biking trails in the hills and forests around town. Taupo even hosts New Zealand’s the biggest mass-participation cycling event, the Lake Taupo Cycle Challenge, every November.
Kayaking: Don’t miss the the hidden Māori rock carvings at Mine Bay, reachable only by boat or kayak. The 10m-high likeness of Māori navigator Ngātoroirangi is said to protect the area from volcanic activity.
Fishing: is popular here. Apparently Taupo is the top freshwater fishing destination in New Zealand; people go fly fishing for trout all year round.
Other thrills: There’s also bungee jumping (‘water touch’ bungee into the Waikato River, anyone?), cliff swinging, parasailing and whitewater rafting.
Hot springs: After all that activity, soothe your aches in one of several natural or man-made spa pools. The Spa Park is a natural thermal spring at the start of the hiking trail to Huka Falls – it’s free, so it can get crowded. Instead we went to Taupo DeBretts Spa Resort, which is more organised. It has several outdoor pools and private indoor pools, and a kid’s water playground so it’s good for families. There were many when we went; I’d suggest going later in the day when there are fewer small children. Entry is NZ$22 per adult.
Hobbiton
Even if you’re not a giddy fan of Lord of the Rings (what’s wrong with you?) or the Hobbit films (who is?), a visit to Hobbiton is well worth it.
It looks and feels more like the real thing than a film set. There’s an incredible amount of detail – pay attention and notice the little hobbit clothes strung up on clotheslines, and ‘wheelbarrow for sale’ signs pinned to the village noticeboard.
Knowledgeable guides (test-passing LotR fans) lead you through Hobbiton’s lanes to the most recogniseable hobbit holes, giving insider trivia and pointing out which trees are fake. You’ll stop at the village green, site of Bilbo’s long-expected party, and crouch to pose in tiny round doorways. After the bridge and the old mill, the tour ends at the Green Dragon – human-sized but no less believable, right down to the selection of locally brewed Southfarthing ales. 100% authentic, we can vouch for that.
You can only visit on a scheduled tour, and the tours are seamlessly coordinated. In peak season Hobbiton sees over 3,000 visitors a day, but with booked time slots and a fixed route, you’re unlikely to have your views blocked by a crowd. (Warner Bros Harry Potter studio tour, take note.)
Hobbiton: Details
Book in advance. There are about 35 tours a day, between 9am and 3.30pm, or 5.30pm in peak season. The tour takes about 2 hours from start to finish, and you need to arrive 15 minutes early to collect your tickets. A regular ticket costs NZ$84, or add NZ$36 if you want a buffet lunch in an on-site marquee (there’s a cheaper canteen by the ticket office and car park though). Don’t expect much from the gift shop.
You can also book tours starting from the Matamata tourist info centre, or from Rotorua.
What if we have more time?
If you’ve more than a week to spend, you could extend this itinerary by continuing to drive south. Aim for Tongariro National Park and hike the incredible Tongariro Alpine Crossing, if the weather allows (it’s fickle; do be cautious). Stay in Whakapapa Village for mountain wilderness, and head up to the ski field for more stunning scenery and outdoorsy activities.
Carry on to the Desert Road for views of a completely different kind. Rangipo Desert is barren and dramatic – it’s where the Black Gate of Mordor scenes were filmed. Keep driving, and in about 3.5h you’ll reach Wellington and ferries to the South Island.
Or for an alternative North Island itinerary, there’s more to see within a couple of hours’ drive of Auckland. I’d have liked to see the glow worm caves in Waitomo – you can take a guided walk or boat tour, or go ‘black water rafting’ through the subterranean maze. The Coromandel Peninsula is also highly recommended, with its dramatic limestone cliffs, Hot Water Beach and the rock archway of Cathedral Cove.
When to go
The peak summer months of December, January and February are hottest and busiest. June to August is winter – good for skiing, but some areas might be inaccessible. Autumn and spring are often recommended to avoid crowds and high prices, but with comfortable temperatures. Our trip was in early October, and it was generally quiet, with sunny days and chilly nights. On average, temperatures were about 16-18°C.
In places popular with New Zealander tourists, like Taupo and Waiheke, it can also help to avoid local school holidays. In 2019, school holidays are from 13 to 28 April; from 6 to 21 July; 28 September to 13 October; and from 14 December to 27 January 2020.
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