Colombia is huge, diverse and moreish. Snobbier travellers scoff at those of us with only a couple of weeks (we took advantage of a few bank holidays, giving us 16 days to play with after travel days), but you can still cover a lot of ground. Two things are your friends: internal flights and prioritising.
This itinerary covers the best of Colombia’s cities and colonial towns, with a couple of beach days and a good amount of time in coffee country.
Jump to:
- Budgeting: How much did two weeks in Colombia cost?
- Itinerary planning: Would we have done anything differently?
Prices are in Colombian pesos (COP) or British pounds (£).
The itinerary
| Day | Night | ||
| Day 0 | Arrive Bogotá in the evening | Bogotá | Read about Bogotá |
| Day 1 | Bogotá – sightseeing | Bogotá | |
| Day 2 | Fly to Armenia (1h), taxi to bus station and bus to Salento (45 mins) | Salento | Read about Salento |
| Day 3 | Salento – explore the town, do a coffee tour | Salento | |
| Day 4 | Salento – Cocora Valley hike | Salento | Read about the Cocora Valley |
| Day 5 | Taxi (5-6h) or buses (10-12h) to Jardín | Jardín | Read about Jardín |
| Day 6 | Jardín – explore, hike | Jardín | |
| Day 7 | Bus to Medellín (3h) | Medellín | Read about Medellín |
| Day 8 | Medellín – sightseeing | Medellín | |
| Day 9 | Medellín – day trip to Guatape | Medellín | Read about Guatape |
| Day 10 | Medellín – more exploring | Medellín | |
| Day 11 | Fly to Santa Marta (1h 15m), taxi to Tayrona National Park area (1h) | Tayrona | Read about Tayrona National Park |
| Day 12 | Tayrona National Park – hiking and beaches | Tayrona | |
| Day 13 | Shuttle or bus to Cartagena (5h) | Cartagena | Read about Cartagena |
| Day 14 | Cartagena – sightseeing | Cartagena | |
| Day 15 | Cartagena – or a nearby beach | Cartagena | |
| Day 16 | Cartagena, and evening flight home | plane |
Bogotá
With so much else in the itinerary, I think you can justify giving Bogotá just one day. For a South American capital city I really liked it, but as a tourist there’s less to hold your interest than other parts of the country.
Transport in Bogotá
Taxis are the best way to get around, and apps such as Easy Taxi and Tappsi are recommended as I’ve heard safety concerns about hailing taxis on the street. Ask your hotel to arrange your airport pick-up (we paid 60,000 COP, but it would have been 40,000 before 9:30pm). Conveniently, the airport is less than 20 minutes’ drive from the city centre.
Where to stay in Bogotá
We loved Hotel Vilar América – huge rooms, dated but accidentally cool and retro decor, really comfortable beds, good breakfast buffet, and great value at £32/night.
It’s in Chapinero, a safe and buzzy neighbourhood north of the centre. A lot of tourists stay in La Candelaria, where more of the sights and old-town atmosphere are, but it can be sketchier at night and lacks the more interesting local hangouts.
What to do in Bogotá
Explore La Candelaria and go to a museum or two. Museo del Oro (the gold museum) is often recommended. We enjoyed Museo Botero, where you can get to know the wacky work of Colombia’s favourite artist, Fernando Botero, and others including Dalí, Miró, Picasso and Matisse.
In the evening, check out the bars and restaurants of the Chapinero district.
Inside the Botero Museum 
If you have more time than we did, go up to the top of the Monserrate for panoramic views of the city. If you’re looking for day trips, the most popular is the salt cathedral in Zipaquirá, or overnight in the colonial town of Villa de Leyva.
Do not do what we did and waste the first morning of your holiday in the Avianca office (although it is a convenient 5-minute walk from the hotel), stuttering in Spanish and trying to rebook your Bogotá-Armenia flight. Also, do not book with Kiwi for Avianca flights.
Where to eat and drink in Bogotá
The famous Puerta Falsa is a must apparently, but it had a queue stretching down the block even in the pouring rain. We went to Mama Lupe, a few doors down – it’s cosy and traditional, but the food is nothing special and somewhat overpriced.
The Pub is a great option for drinks in La Candelaria, a mildly Irish bar with a lovely courtyard. Down the road is Bogotá Beer Company, a chain of excellent brewpubs, but it’s all over Colombia so don’t worry if you miss it in Bogotá.
7 Cabras (Siete Cabras) was our pick for dinner in Chapinero. It has a fun atmosphere, friendly service and delicious food (order the lamb chops and the banoffee dessert).
Honestly, from what we could see, Bogotá is filled with trendy looking, moodily lit, creatively hipster places. There were several small bars near 7 Cabras that looked inviting, for example, but with jetlag we opted for an early night.
Salento
Salento is a colourful town in Colombia’s coffee region – all lush green mountains, farmland and endlessly winding bus routes, west of Bogotá and south of Medellín. It’s also near the Valle de Cocora, an iconic valley of wax palms, so it’s firmly on the tourist trail.
That doesn’t make it any less charming. Arriving on Easter Sunday, Salento’s central plaza and Calle Real were heaving with market stalls and Colombian tourists – lots of kids being dressed up as cowboys and pushed around on tiny toy Jeeps – but the vibe was relaxed.
Transport to Salento
To get to Salento, fly to Armenia or Pereira. Armenia is preferable as it’s nearer – 45 minutes’ drive as opposed to an hour – but check Skyscanner for times and prices. Alternatively it’s 6-8 hours by bus from Bogotá.
At Armenia airport, we took a taxi for 20 minutes to the bus terminal. On Easter Sunday it was chaotically crowded, but the buses seemed to be running as normal. From the taxi drop-off, head inside the terminal and turn right, walk through to the side exit and ask for buses to Salento. There’s a bus every 20 minutes, costing 4,500 COP per person.
Where to stay, what to do and where to eat in Salento
Find out in Salento or Jardin? Two perfect towns in Colombia’s coffee region
Jardín
We were reluctant to leave Salento, but Jardín didn’t disappoint. It’s a similarly quaint colonial town in coffee-farming country, but just a bit more lively and authentic. Where Salento felt like a holiday retreat, Jardín is a real working town that just happens to be incredibly pretty.
Transport to and from Jardín
Jardín is a three-hour bus ride from Medellín, with frequent departures. Two bus companies have their offices on Calle 8 where you can buy tickets on the day.
Getting there from Salento, however, you have three options:
- The cheapest: Get the bus to Riosucio (there might be a direct bus from Salento, otherwise go to Pereira first), and bus to Jardín from there. That’s an unpaved mountain road, and on local buses (chivas) it’s slow and uncomfortable. Expect to spend 10-12 hours in total.
- The untested but theoretically faster option: Taxi to Armenia or Pereira airport, fly to Medellín’s Olaya Herrera airport, walk next door to the bus terminal (Terminal del Sur), and get the bus to Jardín. I calculated this could take 7-8 hours.
- The fastest and easiest: Taxi the whole way. We basically threw money at the problem; this cost 580,000 COP and took 5 and a half hours. It was comfortable, our driver showed us points of interest along the way (at one point he screeched to a stop because he’d spotted a rare bird), and it was door to door.
Where to stay, what to do and where to eat in Jardin
Find out in Salento or Jardin? Two perfect towns in Colombia’s coffee region
Medellín
Of the three cities we spent time in, Medellín was by far our favourite. It’s contradictory – both vast and intimate, intimidating and friendly, sobering and inspiring. The weather is warm and it’s filled with good restaurants, bars, hotels and shopping. OK, the traffic can be infuriating, but for the most part it’s an easy place to be a tourist.
Transport in Medellín
Taxis are ubiquitous and generally reliable; just ask to use the meter if it’s not already on. The Medellín Metro is excellent; buy a ticket at the counter and touch in, or drop it through the slot if it’s single-use. For flights, try to use Olaya Herrera airport, which is central; it took us 1h 15m to get to José María Córdova airport by taxi.
Where to stay in Medellín
Most people seem to stay in upmarket El Poblado, and it was nice, but we preferred Laureles. Laureles is safe and leafy, with a studenty vibe and loads of restaurants. It’s mostly quiet but weekends are lively, bars had outdoor Game of Thrones screenings, and nearby Estadio filled with football fans on game days; we happened to be there during a pivotal match between Medellín and Cali.
Hotel Cabo de la Vela isn’t especially stylish, but it’s great value (we paid £28/night), with big enough rooms and generous breakfasts. It’s around the corner from La Setenta (70th), the street with most nightlife. Don’t miss the cool clothes shop next door, Fou Fuera de lo Común.
We are all migrants 
What to do in Medellín
Take a tour of Comuna 13: probably the best tour I’ve taken, anywhere in the world. We went with Comuna 13 Tours (70,000 COP per person; no tip expected), and our guide Oscar was knowledgeable and entertaining. The tour took almost 5 hours and included cable car rides over the city, street food, fruit juices, a breakdancing performance, endless street art, and an emotional rollercoaster as you hear the story of the comuna.
Go to a salsa club: Son Havana is the real deal, and has live music on weekends (starting around midnight). This was the only time in Colombia when we felt thoroughly out of our element. If you’re easily intimidated, go during the week – we heard it’s more tourist-friendly and there are often salsa lessons. Or if you do go at the weekend, arrive around 9pm to get a table. We went at 11pm, the place was packed, and EVERYONE was dancing. We stood awkwardly in front of some tables, vaguely swaying our hips and realising you either know salsa or you don’t.
Admire the view from El Zarzal: a casual restaurant on the outskirts of the city, with great empanadas and micheladas, and mesmerising views. It was a 20-minute, 15,000 COP taxi ride from El Poblado. Getting back was a struggle though; Uber and Easy Taxi came up with nothing, and we caused a bit of a stir when we asked for help – the restaurant manager ended up calling in a favour with a taxi driver friend. So maybe pre-book a taxi.
What to do in Medellín: the day trip to Guatape
This is the most popular day trip from Medellín, and with good reason. Guatape itself is touristy and kind of contrived, but still a pretty colonial town. More impressive is La Piedra, a monolith criss-crossed with staircases, with the most breathtaking views of an artificial reservoir I’ve ever seen.
It’s an easy day out, so don’t bother booking a tour. Go to Medellín’s North Terminal (the Metro station is Caribe); counters 9 and 14 for Guatape. The bus takes 2h and costs 15,000 COP (each, one-way). The bus stops at La Piedra after the town of El Peñol, before Guatape; get off and follow the steep track up to the base of the rock.
Tickets to climb La Piedra cost 18,000 COP and it’s 740 steps to the top, but it wasn’t too hard. Enjoy the view on the way, avoid the crowds by going on a weekday, and have a mango michelada when you reach the top; those things are a revelation.
Back on the road, take one of the waiting tuktuks to Guatape for 10,000 COP. Explore the town, have lunch, and head to the waterfront for buses back to Medellín (here’s the timetable for buses from Guatape to Medellin).
Guatape 
Where to eat and drink in Medellín
As well as El Zarzal and Son Havana listed above…
Al Alma: sorry Salento, but this was our best brunch in Colombia. Dishes are generous and everything was delicious.
La Cumparsita is a little neighbourhood Argentinian place in Laureles. Probably the best steak I’ve had outside Argentina.
Full Arabe has fantastic Middle Eastern food.
Órale is a busy Mexican place with colourful decor and decent food.
Bogotá Beer Company and Medellín Beer Factory are reliable spots for craft beer.
Barrio Central is a popular bar in Laureles; great atmosphere but service was slowww.
Tayrona National Park
I hate to say it – because it’s such a romantic idea, jungle-covered mountains meeting the sea on tropical beaches – but we just didn’t love Tayrona. The beaches were nice but not spectacular, it was too hot to enjoy them, and it was all more expensive than other parts of Colombia.
That said, it’s interesting to see the Caribbean coast after all that breezy civilisation. Go straight to the Tayrona area if you can; the city of Santa Marta isn’t appealing.
Transport to and from Tayrona
Fly to Santa Marta, and get your accommodation to pick you up or book a taxi from the airport. It’s about an hour’s drive to Tayrona National Park. Santa Marta also has many bus connections, and there are shuttle services to Cartagena with Marsol and Berlinastur.
Where to stay for Tayrona
Don’t stay inside the national park; everything we heard from other travellers was that it’s overpriced and uncomfortable.
Playa Pikua Ecolodge is just outside – about 15 mins drive – and it was lovely. Rustic, cosy and quiet, steps from the beach, with generous breakfasts and bowls of fruit delivered to your door. Our only issue was communication, with the owners offsite and all communication being via WhatsApp (in Spanish, with me running everything through Google Translate). We paid £64/night.
A cheaper option would be Eco Hostal Yuluka (from £39/night for a private room), which is consistently recommended, has a pool and restaurant, and shuttle service to the park entrance.
What to do in Tayrona
The hike from the main El Zaino entrance to the iconic beach at Cabo San Juan is the most popular, and a good introduction to the park. It takes 1.5 to 2 hours each way, excluding the minivan from the entrance to the start of the hike (DO take the minivan; it’s worth 3,000 COP to save another hour of walking).
The biggest challenge you face is the heat. The terrain isn’t too difficult (though you do need hiking shoes), but our pouring sweat killed the mood. Once you reach Cabo San Juan, there’s a restaurant, toilets, and food and drink stalls.
Bring enough cash. We spent around 160,000 COP for us both, including a snack lunch and soft drinks. It cost 59,500 per person for park entry and insurance, 3,000 for the van, 3,000 for bottled water and 7–10,000 for a sandwich. We didn’t try the restaurant, but dishes cost 15–35,000.
There’s a separate queue for the mandatory insurance, to the left of the gate before going into the main ticket hall. You’ll need your passport, but they didn’t ask about yellow fever vaccinations.
Avoid major public holidays and weekends if you can. We met a couple who’d gone to Tayrona during Semana Santa (Easter week), and decided to turn back at the entrance because of the queues. We went on a random Wednesday, and the beaches were busy but not unbearable.
Where to eat in Tayrona
Outside the park, you’ll probably rely on hostels’ restaurants. Playa Pikua Ecolodge doesn’t have a restaurant; you can have dinners delivered, but we preferred going next door to La Brisa Tranquila. Food was generally good, it’s cheaper than alternatives in the area, and the people watching was entertaining – bored gap year kids who’d expected Tayrona to be a party place.
Cartagena
Cartagena was exactly as I’d expected, and that’s a compliment. It’s hot, busy and expensive, but so picturesque that it’s worth it. Any Colombia itinerary has to give at least a day or two to Cartagena: soak up the history, eat great food and take millions of photos.
Transport to and from Cartagena
From Tayrona to Cartagena, we were going to get the bus from Santa Marta, but were talked into getting the Marsol shuttle instead. It’s had mixed reviews, but was fine. OK, they were almost an hour late picking us up, and made us switch vans at a rest stop for no reason. But arriving into central Cartagena instead of a distant bus terminal was convenient.
Here’s the timetable for shuttles from Tayrona National Park. To Cartagena, it took 5 hours and cost 78,000 COP each.
Leaving Cartagena, we took a cheap flight to Bogotá to connect to the return leg of our international flights, but it’s worth checking for more direct options.
Where to stay in Cartagena
Getsemani is hard to beat: lovely to look at, less touristy than the walled city (the small centre of Cartagena’s old town), but easily walkable for sights and restaurants. Hotels are also slightly cheaper here, and full of character. Avoid the Bocagrande area unless you’re desperate for a bigger pool and mediocre beach.
Hotel Casa Pizarro is a good pick, and if it hadn’t been for an all-day power cut on our last day, I’d say it was perfect. The rooms, courtyard pool and rooftop breakfast area are gorgeous, staff are helpful and the location is ideal. It’s also a decent price for Cartagena – we paid £72/night, but saw many worse places that cost more.
“We don’t have wi-fi; talk amongst yourselves” 
What to do in Cartagena
Here’s what we did in Cartagena: walk around, get ice cream when we’re too hot, get coffee when we’re too tired, drink frequently and eat copiously.
Don’t miss Plaza de la Trinidad for street food and people watching, and Plaza de Bovedas for the dungeons that were turned into souvenir shops. If you didn’t go to a salsa club in Medellín (which you should have), Café Havana is the place to go.
If you want a beach day, though, Blue Apple Beach House is probably the most relaxed way to do it. It’s a half hour away by boat, on the island of Tierra Bomba. Visit as a day guest for 85,000 COP (including the boat ride), plus 100,000 minimum spend on food and drink. Book a lounger by the pool.
Where to eat and drink in Cartagena
La Cocina de Pepina is a great choice for Colombian food. It’s aimed at tourists, so it’s not cheap, but has cute explanations and some interesting dishes we didn’t see elsewhere.
El Alma is best for a special occasion. It’s a high-end hotel kind of atmosphere, and pricey, but the food was imaginative and excellent quality.
El Kilo is highly rated, but we were disappointed. It was all just a bit self-consciously trendy; food was decent but staff were rude.
Café San Alberto has top-notch coffee.
Alquimico was our favourite place for cocktails. Each floor has a different mood and menu, but they’re all achingly cool – from dark and smoky to tropical kitsch(ish). Go for the rooftop to cool down, the middle floor for food, and the ground floor as the party gets going.
The Movich hotel rooftop is one of the best places in town for drinks with a view; go at 5pm to get a table for sunset. We happened to get the one right beside an American guy who’d hired two photographers and a violinist to play while he proposed to his shrieking girlfriend.
Beer Lovers is self-explanatory and doesn’t disappoint.
El Balcon is good for drinks on a balcony overlooking Plaza de San Diego.
How much did two weeks in Colombia cost?
It’s a rough estimate, but I’d budget £1,150 per person for this 16-day itinerary, excluding international flights.
On average, we spent £43 per night on accommodation (Bogotá, Medellín and Salento were cheapest; Cartagena and Tayrona were most expensive), and each internal flight was £55 per person. For everything else – buses and taxis, food and drink, a couple of tours and national parks – on average we spent £80 per day, in total for two people.
Bring a credit card that doesn’t charge foreign transaction fees (in the UK, I recommend Halifax’s Clarity card). Always have some cash, just in case. We found ATMs everywhere, except the area around Tayrona.
Would we have done anything differently?
No; the itinerary worked out well, and it felt like we had exactly the right amount of time in each place.
There are many ways you could rejig it, though. The main reason for this order is that we left London on a Friday, and wanted Medellín to fall on a weekend (when it’s more fun) and Tayrona mid-week (when it’s less crowded).
If we’d had less time, though, I could have skipped Tayrona, and maybe Bogotá too.
With more time, we would have gone to the Amazon, which would mean flying to Leticia. If we had a month, I’d add the islands of San Andrés and Providencia. With six weeks, I’d add Barichara and Caño Cristales. Two months, and I’d add Cali, Mompox and Minca.
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1 Comment
Absolutely stunning photos!! I loved reading about your adventures. Macanas is so pretty…definitely adding Columbia to my bucket list after reading this! Thanks for sharing!