Now we’re in Cuenca, which is lovely. Supposedly the country’s third largest city, which is hard to believe; after Riobamba, it is a haven, almost an oasis of tranquility (almost – sadly buses and cars will always exist).
It has all the great clichés: cobblestone streets, fading colonial buildings, impressive plazas, and an absurd number of churches. (Plus at least one very friendly local, a little old lady who befriended us while we paused to take photos of the river – how long are we in Cuenca, where are we from, and how can I be from London when I look so dark?)
But for all its old-fashioned charm, thankfully, modernities like Austrian cafés have somehow made their way over (and, er, cable TV, which I never intended to have but we seem to have found ourselves with, and I’m ashamed to admit I’m revelling in it a little. And, er, we’ve also been given two adjoining triple rooms all to ourselves, so I now possess a rather large walk-in wardrobe…).
So of course I’m reluctant to leave, but Peru is calling and it’s getting more insistent – we’ll be there sometime next week!
My one big recommendation for Cuenca
La Viña for Italian food – I know, I know it sounds unlikely, but this was honestly the best ravioli I’ve had anywhere in the world outside Italy, and maybe not even there.
