Ultimate Guide to the Cook Islands: Aitutaki

Aitutaki in the Cook Islands is one of those dreamy destinations that sticks with you. Its beaches really are some of the prettiest in the world, and they’re scattered around a lagoon so blue and with an atmosphere so laid-back that I can’t believe it’s not crawling with tourists.

Aitutaki is also a few degrees warmer than Rarotonga, so if the main island’s relentlessly windy weather is getting to you, hop a tiny plane and hotfoot it to Aitutaki’s balmy shores.

How many days should you spend in Aitutaki?
Where to stay
Where to eat
What to do
How to spend the day on your own private island
How to get around
What to pack
How much will it cost?

How many days should you spend in Aitutaki?

I’ll get this out of the way first – you can take a day trip to Aitutaki from Rarotonga. Air Rarotonga’s Aitutaki Day Tour picks you up at 8am, flies you to Aitutaki, takes you on a tour of the island and lagoon, and takes you back to your hotel in Rarotonga by 5.30pm. It costs $493 pp. That’s better than nothing, and if you’re short on time, I strongly recommend taking the opportunity to see Aitutaki.

But if you have time to stay a night or two, or 14, you’ll feel like the lagoon is your own personal playground. We were there at the end of September – a great time of year weather-wise – and we couldn’t believe how few tourists we came across. Just enough so we didn’t feel like curiosities, but never so many that we couldn’t find a deserted beach.

We spent five days and nights in Aitutaki, and could happily have spent a couple more. There was enough to do to fill our time, and we’re not generally ‘lie on the beach and soak up the rays’ people – if you are, go for at least a week. Our hotel was lovely though, as was the weather. If you’re unsure of either, or if you get bored easily, 3-4 days is enough.

Where to stay: Aitutaki accommodation and geography

There’s no single best place to be in Aitutaki. Arutanga is the main town, but it’s tiny and unless you’ll need frequent access to the post office and police station, you can find better options elsewhere. Restaurants and shops are dotted all over the island.

We stayed at Etu Moana, a gorgeous little resort with eight bungalows kitted out with spa-like bathrooms and huge private decks. It’s luxurious but unpretentious. It wasn’t cheap, at £300-£550/night, but various discounts are available for advance booking or stays of more than four nights. We splashed out on an absolute beachfront villa, because honeymoon, but they all have great views and the same size and layout.

Bigger and more expensive, the Pacific Resort is generally considered the best hotel in the Cook Islands. We had a sneaky look around when we had dinner there, and it does look amazing, but quite a lot busier than Etu Moana. Comparing the two, I’d recommend the Pacific Resort if you want to have a spa and restaurants on-site, and more of a ‘resort’ feel. Etu Moana is more quiet and secluded, and has an honesty bar instead of waiter service.

At the budget end, Matriki Beach Huts comes highly recommended – the bungalows looked cute, in a great location, and only £60-£70/night. Sites like Airbnb also have a few options on Aitutaki. We met a couple staying at a private rental next door to the Tamanu Beach Resort; it was spacious, good value, and on the same beach as the pricey hotels.

All of the above are on the western coast of Aitutaki, where you’ll have a few more options for dining and shopping. On the other side, in Ootu, you’re facing the main part of the lagoon. Personally I’d have felt a bit remote in Ootu as it’s further from the main part of Aitutaki, but there’s no denying the view is more impressive.

Plus, this side of Aitutaki has the only ‘overwater bungalows’ in the Cook Islands. They don’t look quite like Bora Bora’s, though – the eight ‘overwater’ villas at the Aitutaki Lagoon Resort are more half-overwater. They cost about £500 more than the resort’s beachfront bungalows, but hey, maybe the experience is worth it.

A cheaper option in Ootu is Inano Beach Bungalows, which has great reviews. They’re self-catering and start from £68 for a garden view.

Where to eat: Aitutaki restaurants and island nights

There are a few ‘island nights’ on Aitutaki – a buffet dinner followed by a Polynesian music and dance show. The biggest are at the Pacific Resort on Wednesdays ($85 per person) and Tamanu Beach Resort on Thursdays ($75 pp). We didn’t have the best experience at Tamanu, but it’s had good reviews so maybe we were unlucky. If you care about fire dancing, check if Tamanu will have it – it was cancelled on the night we went.

The Pacific Resort’s Rapae Bay restaurant (above) is a lovely spot for a special occasion. Do book ahead, and ask for a table with a view. There’s also a more casual restaurant by the pool, Black Rock Bar, which is good for lunch or drinks.

At the other end of the scale, my favourite place for totally unpretentious but delicious food is Puffy’s. It’s not much to look at, but the fish & chips was outstanding – don’t expect the drowned-in-batter variety of your average English chip shop. You can get it to take away if the plastic tables don’t appeal.

There aren’t many options in Arutanga – none when we went looking, mid-afternoon on a weekday. A good bet for food in the area is Aquila’s, which serves simple meals and burgers from a hatch beside the grocery store.

In Ootu, Koru Café has great food and welcoming service. They also do lunch packs for day trips, barbecue packs and ‘heat & eat’ takeaway boxes. They’re a bit pricey for what you get, but a good option if you want to eat at your accommodation (and almost certainly cheaper than buying all the ingredients at a grocery store).

Also in Ootu, the Blue Lagoon Restaurant & Bar has a dreamy location with a view of the lagoon, and the Boat Shed is popular. Both have decent food and a casual atmosphere. There’s also the Flying Boat Beach Bar & Grill at the Aitutaki Lagoon Resort, which gets decent reviews.

If you are going to cook for yourself, there are a few grocery stores in Arutanga and along the road on the west side of the island. They’re not especially well-stocked, though, and most things are unreasonably expensive – do bring as much as you can from Rarotonga. If you need supplies on a Sunday, the Neibaa Store in the east is open, as is the petrol station by the airport.

What to do: Aitutaki tours and activities

To be honest, if you’re twiddling your thumbs wondering what to do in Aitutaki, you’re doing it wrong. Read, relax, take long walks, eat, drink.

Then take a lagoon tour – that’s essential. A lagoon tour takes you out onto Aitutaki’s prettiest feature, to see a few of the motu (islets) that surround it, and some of the marine life under its surface.

The different lagoon tour operators have slightly different itineraries, but they all get good reviews. We went with Teking Lagoon Tours’ snorkelling safari cruise ($125 pp). This goes to three snorkelling spots – to see tropical fish including giant trevallies and wrasses, giant clams and bright purple coral – and three motu. Teking was well run, the barbecue lunch was yummy, and we liked that they keep groups small (usually 8-12 people), but our ‘guide’ was pretty quiet. Don’t expect an informative tour, just a fun day and some spectacular sights.

Other reputable companies are Kia Orana Cruises (one of the few that also goes on Sundays), Bishop’s Cruises, or for a different experience, the Vaka Cruise. The Vaka is a much bigger boat, so you’ll have more people and move more slowly across the lagoon. There are fewer snorkelling stops but more of a party atmosphere, with singing and an on-board buffet.

Don’t forget to bring your passport if you want the ridiculous stamp from One Foot Island. And some post if you’re one of those tourists who get all giddy at the idea of really remote post offices.

Other things to do in Aitutaki:

• Hike or bike around the island. Our favourite walk was between Maunga Pu and the Piraki lookout, and we loved cycling along the western coast road – read about both here.
• Go to church on Sunday. It might sound weird, but we’re not remotely religious and had a lovely time. Cook Islands churches are very welcoming, it’s an insight into local culture, and there’s lots of beautiful singing. We went to the iconic white church in Arutanga – it’s the oldest church in the Cook Islands – where the service starts at 11am and takes about an hour. Dress appropriately; no shorts, tank tops or flip flops.
• Get pampered at a spa. There are spas at the Pacific Resort and Tamanu Beach Resort, offering massages, facials, etc, that get good reviews.
• Learn to sail. Sailing Aitutaki offers sailing charters for all levels of ability, as well as kayaks, paddleboards and windsurfers you can hire by the hour.
• Kiteboarding. Aitutaki is one of the best places in the world for it, apparently. Try Aitutaki Kite School or Wet & Wild.
• Fishing. There are a few companies offering fishing charters or guided days out, including Wet & Wild and Black Pearl Charters.

How to spend the day on your own private island

OK, it won’t be your OWN private island, but it’s as close to that paradise fantasy as I’ve ever been able to get.

Aitutaki lagoon has 15 motu (islets), and trust me, they’re all stunning. You’ll see many on your lagoon tour anyway (see above), but if you have enough time and budget, a private tour or drop-off is totally worth it.

The more expensive option

Many lagoon tour operators offer a private full-day or half-day tour, where they’ll take you anywhere on the lagoon you want to go. You can do some snorkelling, see a few motu, follow your whims and your own schedule. The cheapest we found was with Bishop’s Cruises, which offers a half-day charter for $350 or a full day for $500.

The more private option

If all you want is to be left alone on an island, get a water taxi. This is what we did, and we used Mona’s Water Taxi, which costs $50-80 per person depending on your choice of island. They were friendly and reliable, though as we often found in the Cook Islands, timings aren’t exact. We were dropped off at 10am with the vague promise of an ‘around 1pm’ pick-up. All the ‘haha, imagine if we never see them again’ jokes are not so funny when it’s 2pm and you’ve started panicking.

Which motu should you choose?

To be honest you can’t really go wrong. If possible, take a lagoon tour first, and see if any of the motu steal your heart. Our tour with Teking had taken us to Honeymoon Island, One Foot Island and Maina Island, and while they were all pretty, we wanted to see more. We also knew One Foot can get crowded when the Vaka Cruise docks, and we didn’t want to risk a horde of day-trippers invading our alone time.

We chose Akaiami, which has probably the prettiest beach I’ve ever seen. The island isn’t completely deserted – there’s a small lodge, Akaiami Paradise, where you can stay for a castaway immersion experience. Apart from a 10-minute stop by a tour boat, though, we were the only two people on the whole beach all morning. The only real downsides to Akaiami were the snorkelling, which wasn’t great, and the mosquitos, which were brazen. If that’s likely to bother you, head for Maina – it’s magically mosquito-free.

When we were there in September 2018, the new season of Shipwrecked was being filmed on Moturakau and Ripota, so they were out of bounds. That should indicate how picture-perfect Aitutaki’s islands are!

The cheapest option

Rent a kayak from Ootu beach and row yourself over to Angarei or Ee, the two motu nearest the mainland. Our hotel, Etu Moana, kept kayaks and stand-up paddleboards in Ootu for its guests to use, but you can also rent them from the Blue Lagoon restaurant.

Other tips:

• If you’re going for a tour or water taxi, book at least a few days ahead. We went to Mona’s in person (they’re located here) with two days’ notice, but had to be flexible to fit around their other bookings.
• Check the weather – especially if you’re planning to kayak from Ootu, which can be dangerous. Ask locals for advice before you go.
• Bring loads of sunscreen, reef shoes, maybe a rash vest, bottled water and insect repellent if you’re going to Akaiami.
• Koru Cafe does picnic lunches that you can either pick up or have delivered to your accommodation (order the day before).
• In case you’re wondering about the toilet situation… there is an outhouse with a long-drop on Maina island, and I think there might also be rustic toilets on One Foot and Akaiami, but do ask in advance if you’re worried!

How to get around: Aitutaki transport

There’s no public transport in Aitutaki, but you don’t really need it. Ask your accommodation to pick you up at the airport. Tours and water taxis can also pick you up and drop you off. If you want to explore the island, though, the options are walking, cycling, scooter or car.

We rented a scooter from Popoara Rentals and they were great. It’s safe, even if you’re not a seasoned scooter driver, as there’s so little traffic. It’s also cheap, at $25 a day. Popoara is based in Ootu, beside the Boat Shed restaurant, but they’ll pick you up and drop you off anywhere.

You’ll need a valid licence. A standard UK driving licence should let you rent a scooter up to 50cc, but if yours is only valid for cars, you can get a Cook Islands scooter licence. It’s easier in Aitutaki than in Rarotonga. Go to the police station in Arutanga – it’s behind the post office, about 30m up the hill – ideally between 8am and 10am, when one of Aitutaki’s three police officers is likely to be there. The paperwork costs $2.50, and there’s no test. Bring exact change, your driver’s licence and your passport.

Seeing Aitutaki by bicycle is also a lot of fun. We borrowed ours from Etu Moana, but you can also rent from Rino’s Rentals or Aquila Rentals. I recommend asking at your accommodation, as they often have relationships with particular rental companies and might get you a good deal.

All of those places also rent cars, but unless the weather is terrible, I can’t imagine why you’d need a car in Aitutaki.

What to pack for Aitutaki

My packing list for Rarotonga applies here too, but I’d add:

• sunscreen is even more important here, and rash vests if you’re spending much time swimming and snorkelling
• waterproof bags like these from Amazon are great if you’re going out on a boat tour, to protect your camera and spare clothes
• a waterproof camera, GoPro or waterproof iPhone case to capture everything you’ll see snorkelling
• hand sanitiser or wet wipes are handy for days out on the lagoon
• snorkelling masks and flippers if you’re picky about that sort of thing. We found all our accommodation and tours supplied them though
• some cash. Bigger restaurants, hotels and tour companies do usually take credit cards (Visa and Mastercard), and there are two ATMs on the island, but they’re sometimes out of order
• food and drink, especially if you have special requirements or like a lot of snacks – we found grocery stores in Aitutaki are both sparsely stocked and really expensive. Bottles of wine and spirits are best bought at Rarotonga airport when you first arrive.

Aitutaki budget: How much will it cost?

As a very rough guess – if you stay in mid-range accommodation, eat at a mix of restaurants, hire a scooter and take a couple of tours during your stay – I estimate you’d spend NZ$250-$300 per person, per day in Aitutaki.

Accommodation is the big expense, so take a look at private rentals if you’re on a budget. Most lower-end places are self-catering, meaning you can save even more by cooking your own meals. My pick would have been Matriki Beach Huts or Inano Beach Bungalows as they’re in pretty locations and get great reviews. Even if you go for a luxury hotel, check for deals like ‘5 nights for the price of 4’ or early-booking discounts.

Unfortunately, there’s no cheap way to get to Aitutaki. There are no commercial boats and Air Rarotonga’s flight prices don’t fluctuate much. You can get flights from Rarotonga to Aitutaki for $129 each way, usually very early in the morning, and you can save a bit by booking last-minute if you’re happy to risk it. In general, though, return flights from Rarotonga will cost between $400 and $550.

Avoiding high season and holidays can save a bit too. Things are generally more expensive when the island is busier around Christmas and western school holidays (July and August), and cheaper in rainy season (November to March, excluding Christmas).

Or just accept that your time in Aitutaki won’t be cheap, but utterly, seriously-you’ll-regret-it-if-you-don’t worth it.

Prices are in New Zealand dollars ($) or British pounds (£).

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